Melasma & Pigmentation Guide (Indian Skin)

What Is Pigmentation & Melasma?

Skin pigmentation refers to the natural color of the skin, determined by the amount and activity of melanin produced by melanocytes. When melanin production becomes irregular or excessive, it leads to visible dark patches known as hyperpigmentation.

Melasma is a chronic and relapsing form of hyperpigmentation characterized by symmetrical brown or grey-brown patches, most commonly appearing on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and jawline. Unlike temporary pigmentation, melasma is deeply influenced by internal and external factors and requires long-term management rather than short-term correction.

In Indian skin types (Fitzpatrick IV–V), pigmentation disorders are more prominent due to higher baseline melanocyte activity. This makes Indian skin more responsive to triggers such as ultraviolet radiation, visible light, heat, inflammation, and hormonal changes.

Why Pigmentation Is More Common in Indian Skin

Indian skin contains melanocytes that are highly efficient at producing melanin. While this offers natural protection against ultraviolet damage, it also increases the risk of pigmentation disorders.

Key contributing factors include:

  • Sun exposure: UVA, UVB, and visible light stimulate melanocyte activity

  • Heat exposure: Infrared radiation worsens melasma severity

  • Hormonal influences: Pregnancy, oral contraceptives, and thyroid disorders

  • Inflammation: Acne, cosmetic procedures, or over-exfoliation

  • Genetic predisposition: Family history of melasma or pigmentation

Unlike lighter skin tones, pigmentation in Indian skin tends to be more persistent and slower to resolve, especially when sun protection is inconsistent.

Why Most Pigmentation Treatments Fail

Many pigmentation treatments fail because they focus only on lightening the skin rather than addressing the biological pathways responsible for melanin overproduction.

Common reasons for treatment failure include:

  • Overuse of harsh exfoliating acids that trigger inflammation

  • Dependence on short-term brightening agents without photoprotection

  • Inconsistent sunscreen usage

  • Ignoring visible light and heat exposure

  • Use of steroid-containing fairness creams

Without controlling the melanocyte stimulation cycle, pigmentation—especially melasma—often returns even after temporary improvement.

The Science Behind Melasma Formation

Melasma develops due to overstimulation of melanocytes through multiple signaling pathways. Ultraviolet radiation increases the release of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), which binds to melanocortin-1 receptors on melanocytes.

This activation leads to increased tyrosinase activity, resulting in excess melanin synthesis. In addition, visible light and infrared radiation deepen pigmentation by inducing vascular and inflammatory responses within the skin.

Effective melasma management requires a combination of:

  • Inhibition of melanin production

  • Reduction of inflammatory triggers

  • Strict and continuous photoprotection

Evidence-Based Ingredients for Pigmentation & Melasma

Effective management of pigmentation and melasma requires ingredients that act on different stages of melanin production and transfer. Scientific evidence supports the use of the following actives for Indian skin types when used consistently and safely.

Nonapeptide-1
This biomimetic peptide works by inhibiting the α-MSH signaling pathway, thereby reducing melanocyte stimulation. Studies demonstrate its ability to regulate melanin synthesis without causing irritation, making it suitable for long-term use in pigmentation-prone skin.

Niacinamide
Niacinamide reduces the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. Clinical studies have shown improvement in uneven skin tone and barrier function, particularly in darker skin tones.

Tranexamic Acid
Tranexamic acid acts by inhibiting the plasminogen pathway, which plays a role in UV-induced pigmentation. Both topical and oral forms have shown efficacy in melasma management when used under medical guidance.

Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase activity and has anti-inflammatory properties. It is widely recommended by dermatologists for melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in acne-prone skin.

Role of Sunscreen in Melasma Management

Sunscreen is the cornerstone of melasma treatment. Without consistent and adequate photoprotection, pigmentation treatments provide only temporary improvement.

Research shows that ultraviolet radiation, visible light, and infrared radiation all contribute to melanocyte activation. While traditional sunscreens protect against UVA and UVB rays, they often fail to block visible light, which is a major contributor to melasma in Indian skin.

Tinted sunscreens containing iron oxides provide enhanced protection against visible light. This makes them particularly effective in preventing recurrence and worsening of melasma when used daily.

For individuals with pigmentation-prone skin, sunscreen must be:

  • Broad-spectrum (UVA + UVB)

  • High SPF with photostable filters

  • Effective against visible light

  • Comfortable for daily use

Daily sunscreen use significantly improves treatment outcomes and reduces relapse rates in melasma.

Dermatologist-Recommended Daily Routine for Pigmentation Control

Managing pigmentation and melasma requires a consistent daily routine that minimizes triggers while supporting skin barrier health.

Morning Routine

  • Use a gentle, non-stripping cleanser to remove overnight impurities

  • Apply a broad-spectrum tinted sunscreen as the final step

  • Reapply sunscreen every 2–3 hours when exposed to daylight

Night Routine

  • Cleanse the skin to remove sunscreen and pollutants

  • Apply pigmentation-targeting treatments containing clinically supported ingredients

  • Use a barrier-supporting moisturizer to reduce irritation and inflammation

Consistency is more important than product strength. Even scientifically proven treatments will underperform if sunscreen application is irregular.

How Long Does Pigmentation Take to Improve?

Pigmentation improvement occurs in phases and varies depending on severity, skin type, and adherence to sun protection.

  • 3–7 days: Improvement in overall skin tone uniformity

  • 4–6 weeks: Gradual reduction in pigmentation intensity

  • 8–12 weeks: Visible stabilization and reduced recurrence

Melasma is a chronic condition, and maintenance therapy is essential to sustain results.

Long-Term Safety and Side Effects

Certain pigmentation treatments can cause rebound darkening, irritation, or steroid dependence when used incorrectly.

Ingredients such as hydroquinone and topical steroids should only be used under medical supervision and for limited durations.

Safer long-term alternatives include:

  • Peptides targeting melanocyte signaling

  • Niacinamide

  • Azelaic acid

  • Consistent photoprotection with tinted sunscreen

For pregnant or lactating individuals, treatment choices should always be reviewed by a dermatologist.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Is melasma permanent?
Melasma is a chronic condition, but it can be effectively managed with consistent sun protection and evidence-based treatments.

Can sunscreen alone treat melasma?
Sunscreen does not treat existing pigmentation but is essential to prevent worsening and recurrence.

Is melasma more common in Indian skin?
Yes. Higher baseline melanocyte activity makes Indian skin more susceptible to pigmentation disorders.

Are pigmentation treatments safe for long-term use?
Treatments that target melanin regulation rather than skin bleaching are generally safer for long-term management.